Zero Waste in apparel industry: limitations and alternatives

Autores/as

  • Isabel Cristina Italiano Doctor in Electric Engineering, Associate Professor, School of Arts, Sciences and Humanities, University of São Paulo, SP, Brazil https://orcid.org/0000-0003-4887-7904
  • Lílian Sayuri Kauvauti Master in Sciences (Textile and Fashion), Researcher, School of Arts, Sciences and Humanities, University of São Paulo, SP, Brazil https://orcid.org/0000-0002-9014-7190
  • João Paulo Pereira Marcicano Doctor in Mechanical Engineering, Associate Professor, School of Arts, Sciences and Humanities, University of São Paulo, SP, Brazil https://orcid.org/0000-0002-8509-8259

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.18472/SustDeb.v13n2.2022.40716

Palabras clave:

Zero resíduo, Vestuário, Indústria, Sustentabilidade têxtil

Resumen

Zero Waste approach applied to garment manufacturing promises the elimination of textile waste in the production process, with actions towards sustainability. In this perspective, this article identifies critical aspects and limitations of the design and the pattern making process using Zero Waste approach, aiming its application in the garment industry, with large-scale production. The study initiates with zero waste bibliography research and theoretical and experimental analysis of the proposals of the fashion designers who use Zero Waste approach to garment design and pattern making. As results, the article presents critical aspects and limitations of the approach, and discuss viable alternatives for its implementation in the large-scale garment manufacturing process.

Descargas

Los datos de descargas todavía no están disponibles.

Biografía del autor/a

Isabel Cristina Italiano, Doctor in Electric Engineering, Associate Professor, School of Arts, Sciences and Humanities, University of São Paulo, SP, Brazil

Master in computer science from the USP, Doctor in Electrical Engineering (Digital Systems) from the USP, postdoctoral appointment in historical costumes at the USP. She is an associate professor and researcher at the University of São Paulo, in the areas of pattern making and construction of historical and contemporary costumes, pattern making methods and tailoring. She also is an interdisciplinary researcher in the development of innovative technology products in the clothing area (e-textiles and wearables).

Lílian Sayuri Kauvauti, Master in Sciences (Textile and Fashion), Researcher, School of Arts, Sciences and Humanities, University of São Paulo, SP, Brazil

Master in Textile and Fashion from the School of Arts, Sciences and Humanities of the University of São Paulo (EACH-USP). Bachelor in Fashion Styling from the University of Londrina (UEL), post-graduated in Design Management from the same institution and university professor.

João Paulo Pereira Marcicano, Doctor in Mechanical Engineering, Associate Professor, School of Arts, Sciences and Humanities, University of São Paulo, SP, Brazil

Bachelor in Mechanical Engineer from the USP (1989), Master in Mechanical Engineering from the USP (1995) and Doctor in Mechanical Engineering from the USP (2000). He is an associate professor and researcher at the University of São Paulo. He researches infilament and yarn production, sustainable product design methodology and electronic textiles.

Citas

AAKKO, M.; NIINIMÄKI, K. Experimenting with zero-waste fashion design. In: NIINIMÄKI, K. (Ed.) Sustainable Fashion: new approaches. Helsinki – Finland, Aalto ARTS Books, 2013. p. 68-79. ISBN 978-952-60 -5573-2 (pdf). Available in: https://shop.aalto.fi/media/attachments/1ee80/SustainableFashion.pdf. Access in: dec. 2, 2020.

ARAÚJO, M. B. M. de. Marcas de moda sustentável: critérios de sustentabilidade e ferramentas de comunicação. Guimarães - Portugal, 2014. Dissertação (Mestrado em Design de Comunicação de Moda). Universidade do Ninho.

BERLIM, L. Moda e Sustentabilidade: uma reflexão necessária. São Paulo: Estação das Letras e Cores. 2012.

BOUCHER, F. História do vestuário do ocidente: das origens aos nossos dias. Translation: André Telles. São Paulo: Cosac Naify, 2012.

BROOKS, A. Clothing Poverty: the hidden world of fast fashion and second-hand clothes. Zed Books: London, 2015.

CARRICO, M. et al. An Inquiry into Gradable Zero-Waste Apparel Design. Sustainability 2022, v. 14, p. 452. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3390/su14010452.

CUC, S.; VIDOVIC, M. Environmental Sustainability through Clothing Recycling. Operations and Supply Chain Management, v. 4, n. 2/3, p. 108-115, 2011.

ELSHISHTAWY, N.; SINHA, P.; BENNELL, J. A. A comparative review of zero-waste fashion design thinking and operational research on cutting and packing optimization. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 2021. DOI: 10.1080/17543266.2021.1990416.

FIRMO, F. da S. Zero Waste (resíduo zero): uma abordagem sustentável para confecção de vestimentas. Blucher Design Proceedings. 11° CONGRESSO BRASILEIRO DE PESQUISA E DESENVOLVIMENTO EM DESIGN. São Paulo, v. 1, n. 4, p. 1223-1235, 2014. ISSN 2318-6968. DOI: 10.5151/designpro-ped-00668.

FLETCHER, K.; GROSE, L. Moda & Sustentabilidade: design para mudança. Translation: Janaína Marcoantonio. São Paulo: Editora Senac São Paulo, 2011.

KÖHLER, C. História do vestuário. Translation: Jefferson Luis Camargo. São Paulo: Martins Fontes, 2001.

LAVER, J. A roupa e a moda: uma história concisa. São Paulo: Cia das Letras, 1990.

LIMA, M. C. et al. O consumo de produtos de moda baseado na vertente da sustentabilidade ambiental. DAPesquisa, Florianópolis, v. 13, n. 21, p. 25-42, dec. 2018. ISSN 1808-3129. Available in: http://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/dapesquisa/article/view/10125. Access in: dec. 2, 2020.

LIU, M. For a true war on waste, the fashion industry must spend more on research. 2017. Available in: https://theconversation.com/for-a-true-war-on-waste-the-fashion-industry-must-spend-more-on-research-78673. Access in: mar. 30, 2021.

MCQUILLAN, H. Zero-Waste Design Practice: strategies and risk taking for garment design. In: GWILT, A.; RINASSEN, T. (Ed.). Shaping Sustainable Fashion: changing the way we make and use clothes. London: Earthscan, 2011. p. 83-97. Available in: http://www.academia.edu/35416369/Alison_Gwilt_Timo_Rissanen_Shaping_Sustainable_Fashion_Changing_the_Way_We_Make_and_Use_Clothes. Access in: dec. 2, 2020.

MCQUILLAN, H. Zero Waste Design Thinking. Licentiate Thesis. Edited by L. Hallnäs, 2019. University of Borås. Available in: http://hb.diva-portal.org/smash/record.jsf?pid=diva2%3A1316575&dswid=-5159. Access in: dec. 2, 2020.

MCQUILLAN, H. Digital 3D design as a tool for augmenting zero-waste fashion design practice. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, v. 13, n. 1, p. 89-100, 2020. DOI: 10.1080/17543266.2020.1737248

MUTHU, S. S. et al. Quantification of environmental impact and ecological sustainability for textile fibres. Ecological Indicators, v. 13, Issue 1, 2012, p. 66-74, 2012.

PEREZ, I. U.; CAVALCANTE, A. L. B. L. Análise da ecoeficiência do processo de design de moda zero waste. Projética, v. 5, n. 1 Especial – Ensino de Design, p. 41-56, jul. 2014. Londrina-PR. Available in: http://www.uel.br/revistas/uel/index.php/projetica/article/download/17424/15027. Access in: mar. 30, 2021.

RAMKALAON, S.; SAYEM, A. S. M. Zero Waste Pattern Cutting (ZWPC) to tackle over sixty billion square meters of fabric wastage during mass production of apparel. The Journal of the Textile Institute, v. 112, n. 5, p. 809-819, 2021. DOI: 10.1080/00405000.2020.1779636.

RISSANEN, T.; MCQUILLAN, H. Zero Waste Fashion Design. London: Bloomsbury Publishing, 2016. ISBN 978-1-4725-8198-3

RIZZI, S.; ANICET, A.; MEURER, H. Alternativas inovadoras e sustentáveis para o desenvolvimento de produtos de moda, com ênfase nas técnicas de ideação e modelagem focadas no zero waste: uma abordagem slow fashion. 5º CONGRESSO CIENTÍFICO TÊXTIL E MODA. Centro Universitário FEI – Campus São Paulo. Apr. 2017.

ROBERT, J. Free Cutting. 2013. Available in: http://subtractioncutting.tumblr.com/. Access in: jun. 13, 2021.

SALCEDO, E. Moda ética para um futuro sustentável. Translation: Denis Fracalossi. Barcelona: Gustavo Gili, 2014.

TENG, Y. Exhibition – Fashion Unravelled. Museum at Fit. New York, 2018. Available in: https://yeohlee.com/pages/exhibitions. Access in: apr. 18, 2021.

YIELD EXHIBITION. Yield: making fashion without making waste. Catálogo. Nova Zelândia: Dowse Art Museum. Mar. 2011. Available in: https://precariousdesign.files.wordpress.com/2018/02/yieldexhibition-ataloguelr.pdf. Access in: mar. 30, 2021.

Descargas

Publicado

2022-08-30

Cómo citar

Italiano, I. C., Kauvauti, L. S. ., & Marcicano, J. P. P. (2022). Zero Waste in apparel industry: limitations and alternatives. Sustainability in Debate, 13(2), 190–219. https://doi.org/10.18472/SustDeb.v13n2.2022.40716

Número

Vol. 13 Núm. 2 (2022): Sustainability in Debate / Sustentabilidade em Debate

Sección

Articles - Varia

Licencia

Derechos de autor 2022 Sustainability in Debate

Creative Commons License

Esta obra está bajo una licencia internacional Creative Commons Atribución-NoComercial-SinDerivadas 4.0.

La presentación de la(s) obra(s) científica(s) original(es) por parte de los autores, como titulares de los derechos de autor de los textos enviados a la revista, de conformidad con la Ley 9.610/98, implica la cesión de derechos de autor de publicaciones impresas y/o digitales a la Revista de Sustenibilidad en Debate de los artículos aprobados para fines de publicación, en un único número de la Revista, autorizando también que la(s) obra(s) científica(s) aprobada(s) se divulguen de forma gratuita, sin ningún tipo de reembolso de derechos de autor, a través del sitio web de a Revista, para leer, imprimir y/o descargar el archivo de texto, a partir de la fecha de aceptación para publicación. Por lo tanto, los autores, al presentar los artículos a la Revista y, en consecuencia, la libre cesión de derechos de autor relacionados con el trabajo científico presentado, son plenamente conscientes de que no serán remunerados por la publicación de los artículos en la revista. 

La Revista está licenciada bajo una licencia no comercial y sin derivaciones Creative Commons (No permite la realización de obras derivadas) 3.0 Brasil, con el propósito de difundir conocimientos científicos, como se indica en el sitio web de la publicación, que permite el intercambio del texto y el reconocimiento de su autoría y publicación original en esta revista.

Los autores pueden asumir contratos adicionales por separado, para la distribución no exclusiva de las obras publicadas en la revista Sustenibilidad en Debate (por ejemplo, en un capítulo de libro), siempre que se indique que los textos se publicaron originalmente en esta revista y que se menciona el DOI correspondiente. Se permite y incentiva a los autores a publicar y distribuir su texto online después de su publicación (por ejemplo, en repositorios institucionales o en sus páginas personales). 

Los autores aceptan expresamente los términos de esta Declaración de Derechos de Autor, que se aplicará a la presentación si es publicada por esta Revista.

Artículos más leídos del mismo autor/a