Zero Waste in apparel industry: limitations and alternatives

Authors

  • Isabel Cristina Italiano Doctor in Electric Engineering, Associate Professor, School of Arts, Sciences and Humanities, University of São Paulo, SP, Brazil https://orcid.org/0000-0003-4887-7904
  • Lílian Sayuri Kauvauti Master in Sciences (Textile and Fashion), Researcher, School of Arts, Sciences and Humanities, University of São Paulo, SP, Brazil https://orcid.org/0000-0002-9014-7190
  • João Paulo Pereira Marcicano Doctor in Mechanical Engineering, Associate Professor, School of Arts, Sciences and Humanities, University of São Paulo, SP, Brazil https://orcid.org/0000-0002-8509-8259

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.18472/SustDeb.v13n2.2022.40716

Keywords:

Zero waste, Apparel, Industry, Textile Sustainability

Abstract

Zero Waste approach applied to garment manufacturing promises the elimination of textile waste in the production process, with actions towards sustainability. In this perspective, this article identifies critical aspects and limitations of the design and the pattern making process using Zero Waste approach, aiming its application in the garment industry, with large-scale production. The study initiates with zero waste bibliography research and theoretical and experimental analysis of the proposals of the fashion designers who use Zero Waste approach to garment design and pattern making. As results, the article presents critical aspects and limitations of the approach, and discuss viable alternatives for its implementation in the large-scale garment manufacturing process.

Downloads

Download data is not yet available.

Author Biographies

Isabel Cristina Italiano, Doctor in Electric Engineering, Associate Professor, School of Arts, Sciences and Humanities, University of São Paulo, SP, Brazil

Master in computer science from the USP, Doctor in Electrical Engineering (Digital Systems) from the USP, postdoctoral appointment in historical costumes at the USP. She is an associate professor and researcher at the University of São Paulo, in the areas of pattern making and construction of historical and contemporary costumes, pattern making methods and tailoring. She also is an interdisciplinary researcher in the development of innovative technology products in the clothing area (e-textiles and wearables).

Lílian Sayuri Kauvauti, Master in Sciences (Textile and Fashion), Researcher, School of Arts, Sciences and Humanities, University of São Paulo, SP, Brazil

Master in Textile and Fashion from the School of Arts, Sciences and Humanities of the University of São Paulo (EACH-USP). Bachelor in Fashion Styling from the University of Londrina (UEL), post-graduated in Design Management from the same institution and university professor.

João Paulo Pereira Marcicano, Doctor in Mechanical Engineering, Associate Professor, School of Arts, Sciences and Humanities, University of São Paulo, SP, Brazil

Bachelor in Mechanical Engineer from the USP (1989), Master in Mechanical Engineering from the USP (1995) and Doctor in Mechanical Engineering from the USP (2000). He is an associate professor and researcher at the University of São Paulo. He researches infilament and yarn production, sustainable product design methodology and electronic textiles.

References

AAKKO, M.; NIINIMÄKI, K. Experimenting with zero-waste fashion design. In: NIINIMÄKI, K. (Ed.) Sustainable Fashion: new approaches. Helsinki – Finland, Aalto ARTS Books, 2013. p. 68-79. ISBN 978-952-60 -5573-2 (pdf). Available in: https://shop.aalto.fi/media/attachments/1ee80/SustainableFashion.pdf. Access in: dec. 2, 2020.

ARAÚJO, M. B. M. de. Marcas de moda sustentável: critérios de sustentabilidade e ferramentas de comunicação. Guimarães - Portugal, 2014. Dissertação (Mestrado em Design de Comunicação de Moda). Universidade do Ninho.

BERLIM, L. Moda e Sustentabilidade: uma reflexão necessária. São Paulo: Estação das Letras e Cores. 2012.

BOUCHER, F. História do vestuário do ocidente: das origens aos nossos dias. Translation: André Telles. São Paulo: Cosac Naify, 2012.

BROOKS, A. Clothing Poverty: the hidden world of fast fashion and second-hand clothes. Zed Books: London, 2015.

CARRICO, M. et al. An Inquiry into Gradable Zero-Waste Apparel Design. Sustainability 2022, v. 14, p. 452. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3390/su14010452.

CUC, S.; VIDOVIC, M. Environmental Sustainability through Clothing Recycling. Operations and Supply Chain Management, v. 4, n. 2/3, p. 108-115, 2011.

ELSHISHTAWY, N.; SINHA, P.; BENNELL, J. A. A comparative review of zero-waste fashion design thinking and operational research on cutting and packing optimization. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 2021. DOI: 10.1080/17543266.2021.1990416.

FIRMO, F. da S. Zero Waste (resíduo zero): uma abordagem sustentável para confecção de vestimentas. Blucher Design Proceedings. 11° CONGRESSO BRASILEIRO DE PESQUISA E DESENVOLVIMENTO EM DESIGN. São Paulo, v. 1, n. 4, p. 1223-1235, 2014. ISSN 2318-6968. DOI: 10.5151/designpro-ped-00668.

FLETCHER, K.; GROSE, L. Moda & Sustentabilidade: design para mudança. Translation: Janaína Marcoantonio. São Paulo: Editora Senac São Paulo, 2011.

KÖHLER, C. História do vestuário. Translation: Jefferson Luis Camargo. São Paulo: Martins Fontes, 2001.

LAVER, J. A roupa e a moda: uma história concisa. São Paulo: Cia das Letras, 1990.

LIMA, M. C. et al. O consumo de produtos de moda baseado na vertente da sustentabilidade ambiental. DAPesquisa, Florianópolis, v. 13, n. 21, p. 25-42, dec. 2018. ISSN 1808-3129. Available in: http://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/dapesquisa/article/view/10125. Access in: dec. 2, 2020.

LIU, M. For a true war on waste, the fashion industry must spend more on research. 2017. Available in: https://theconversation.com/for-a-true-war-on-waste-the-fashion-industry-must-spend-more-on-research-78673. Access in: mar. 30, 2021.

MCQUILLAN, H. Zero-Waste Design Practice: strategies and risk taking for garment design. In: GWILT, A.; RINASSEN, T. (Ed.). Shaping Sustainable Fashion: changing the way we make and use clothes. London: Earthscan, 2011. p. 83-97. Available in: http://www.academia.edu/35416369/Alison_Gwilt_Timo_Rissanen_Shaping_Sustainable_Fashion_Changing_the_Way_We_Make_and_Use_Clothes. Access in: dec. 2, 2020.

MCQUILLAN, H. Zero Waste Design Thinking. Licentiate Thesis. Edited by L. Hallnäs, 2019. University of Borås. Available in: http://hb.diva-portal.org/smash/record.jsf?pid=diva2%3A1316575&dswid=-5159. Access in: dec. 2, 2020.

MCQUILLAN, H. Digital 3D design as a tool for augmenting zero-waste fashion design practice. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, v. 13, n. 1, p. 89-100, 2020. DOI: 10.1080/17543266.2020.1737248

MUTHU, S. S. et al. Quantification of environmental impact and ecological sustainability for textile fibres. Ecological Indicators, v. 13, Issue 1, 2012, p. 66-74, 2012.

PEREZ, I. U.; CAVALCANTE, A. L. B. L. Análise da ecoeficiência do processo de design de moda zero waste. Projética, v. 5, n. 1 Especial – Ensino de Design, p. 41-56, jul. 2014. Londrina-PR. Available in: http://www.uel.br/revistas/uel/index.php/projetica/article/download/17424/15027. Access in: mar. 30, 2021.

RAMKALAON, S.; SAYEM, A. S. M. Zero Waste Pattern Cutting (ZWPC) to tackle over sixty billion square meters of fabric wastage during mass production of apparel. The Journal of the Textile Institute, v. 112, n. 5, p. 809-819, 2021. DOI: 10.1080/00405000.2020.1779636.

RISSANEN, T.; MCQUILLAN, H. Zero Waste Fashion Design. London: Bloomsbury Publishing, 2016. ISBN 978-1-4725-8198-3

RIZZI, S.; ANICET, A.; MEURER, H. Alternativas inovadoras e sustentáveis para o desenvolvimento de produtos de moda, com ênfase nas técnicas de ideação e modelagem focadas no zero waste: uma abordagem slow fashion. 5º CONGRESSO CIENTÍFICO TÊXTIL E MODA. Centro Universitário FEI – Campus São Paulo. Apr. 2017.

ROBERT, J. Free Cutting. 2013. Available in: http://subtractioncutting.tumblr.com/. Access in: jun. 13, 2021.

SALCEDO, E. Moda ética para um futuro sustentável. Translation: Denis Fracalossi. Barcelona: Gustavo Gili, 2014.

TENG, Y. Exhibition – Fashion Unravelled. Museum at Fit. New York, 2018. Available in: https://yeohlee.com/pages/exhibitions. Access in: apr. 18, 2021.

YIELD EXHIBITION. Yield: making fashion without making waste. Catálogo. Nova Zelândia: Dowse Art Museum. Mar. 2011. Available in: https://precariousdesign.files.wordpress.com/2018/02/yieldexhibition-ataloguelr.pdf. Access in: mar. 30, 2021.

Downloads

Published

2022-08-30

How to Cite

Italiano, I. C., Kauvauti, L. S. ., & Marcicano, J. P. P. (2022). Zero Waste in apparel industry: limitations and alternatives. Sustainability in Debate, 13(2), 190–219. https://doi.org/10.18472/SustDeb.v13n2.2022.40716

Issue

Vol. 13 No. 2 (2022): Sustainability in Debate / Sustentabilidade em Debate

Section

Articles - Varia

License

Copyright (c) 2022 Sustainability in Debate

Creative Commons License

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.

SUSTAINABILITY IN DEBATE – Copyright Statement

The submission of original scientific work(s) by the authors, as the copyright holders of the text(s) sent to the journal, under the terms of Law 9.610/98, implies in the concession of copyrights of printed and/or digital publication to the Sustainability in Debate Journal of the article(s) approved for publication purposes, in a single issue of the journal. Furthermore, approved scientific work(s) will be released without any charge, or any kind of copyright reimbursement, through the journal’s website, for reading, printing and/or downloading of the text file, from the date of acceptance for publication purposes. Therefore, the authors, when submitting the article (s) to the journal, and gratuitous assignment of copyrights related to the submitted scientific work, are fully aware that they will not be remunerated for the publication of the article(s) in the journal.
The Sustainability in Debate Journal is licensed under Creative Commons License – Non-Commercial-No-Derivation Attribution (Derivative Work Ban) 3.0 Brazil, aiming at dissemination of scientific knowledge, as indicated on the journal's website, which allows the text to be shared, and be recognized in regards to its authorship and original publication in this journal.
Authors are allowed to sign additional contracts separately, for non-exclusive distribution of the works published in the Sustainability in Debate Journal (for example, in a book chapter), provided that it is expressed the texts were originally published in this journal. Authors are allowed and encouraged to publish and distribute their text online, following publication in Sustainability in Debate (e.g. in institutional repositories or their personal pages). The authors expressly agree to the terms of this Copyright Statement, which will be applied following the submission and publishing by this journal.

 

Most read articles by the same author(s)